Re: [NTLK] 2100 + Battery Rebuild = Fried Newton

From: matthiasm <>
Date: Fri Oct 31 2008 - 06:45:14 EDT

On 31.10.2008, at 10:21, Ryan Vetter wrote:

> ... 10 minutes later, I hear a POP...

One likely event when recelling in DIY is a short between the new
cells. The tabs on the plus (IIRC) end of the cells must not come in
contact with the cell container itself.

I'd do this now:

1: check if your Newton is OK. Remove the tray, plug in the wall wart
and switch it on while keeping your fingers crossed

2: if that doesn't work, see f you can get you hand on an alternative
battery pack and try again. Tryy all the usual reset procedures.

3: if nothing makes your Newton go again, open the case. A loud pop
indicates physical damage. If you can get to the pcb, you will likely
see a trace on the board that is lifted off and colored like a
marshmallow in the camp fire. Alternitively, a fuse may be fried,
looking similar in color.

4: if your Newton is fine, then the battery pack is broken. There are
four parts that can die: one or more cells, the temperature sensor,
the fuse, or the contacts.

4a: is it the sensor? After a pop, it would be mechanically destroyed.
Easy to see. If you have an ohm meter, and resistance is zero or above
10 MOhm, the part is fried.

4b: measure the resistance of the fuse (the plasticy part at the end
of the cells). It should be close to zero Ohm. Otherwise, it is fried.

4c: now measure the voltage of each cell. It should be between .8 and
1.25 Volts. If one of the cells is zero, or differs a lot, excahnging
that cell will probably fix your pack and you are fine to go.


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Received on Fri Oct 31 07:15:36 2008

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